Bangkok: temples, the river and Chinatown

Which temples should you see first?

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha, are the country's most important royal and religious site. The dress code is strict: shoulders and knees covered, and no shorts, mini skirts, sleeveless tops or flip-flops.

Wat Pho, next door, is home to a 46-metre reclining Buddha covered in gold leaf, with soles inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The temple is also known for its traditional Thai massage school.

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, stands on the Thonburi bank across the river, with a towering central prang decorated with porcelain. Shoulders and knees must be covered here too.

With more time, add Wat Traimit in Chinatown, home to a solid-gold Buddha, and Wat Saket, the Golden Mount, with views over the old city. Next to the Grand Palace, the city pillar shrine marks the symbolic founding of Bangkok in 1782.

How do you get around by river?

The Chao Phraya Express Boat, recognisable by its orange flag, stops at around thirty piers along the river. A simple route is to take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station, then a boat from the pier below to Tha Chang for the Grand Palace or Tha Tien for Wat Pho. Short cross-river ferries from Tha Tien take you to Wat Arun.

What is Chinatown like at night?

On Yaowarat Road, stalls set up in the late afternoon and the street fills with woks, plastic stools and neon signs. Classic dishes include guay jub, a peppery rolled rice-noodle soup, oyster omelettes and grilled seafood. Wat Mangkon station on the MRT Blue Line is the easiest way in. Popular stalls can sell out or close early, so go hungry and go early. Our guide to Thai food explains how to order and share dishes.

Skytrain and metro

The BTS Skytrain and the MRT metro are the quickest way across the city, especially at rush hour. Combine them with the river boats and you can reach most central sights without sitting in traffic. For taxis from the airport, use the official taxi queue rather than drivers who approach you inside the terminal.

Floating markets and day trips

Bangkok's surroundings are easy to explore in a day. Damnoen Saduak and Amphawa are the best-known floating markets, and at the Maeklong railway market traders pull back their awnings each time the train passes through the stalls. Ayutthaya, the former royal capital, is another classic day trip, with temple ruins spread across a river island.

Which scams should you know about?

• "The Grand Palace is closed today." A friendly stranger offers a cheap tour instead, which ends at a gem or tailor shop. Check opening times at the entrance or on the official website.
• Tuk-tuk detours. Drivers waiting outside hotels and sights may add stops at shops that pay them commission. Agree the fare and the route before you get in, and refuse extra stops.
• "Investment" gems. Stones sold as bargains to resell at home are often glass. Unless you are an expert, do not buy gems.
• Muddled change. Exchange money at official counters and count your change, especially when paying with large notes.

Practical tips

• Visit the big temples early in the morning, before the heat and the tour groups.
• Carry a light scarf or long trousers so you can meet temple dress codes.
• Check opening hours and ticket prices on the day: they change, and some sites close for ceremonies.
• In the rainy season, roughly May to October, expect heavy late-afternoon showers and occasional street flooding; rain rarely lasts all day.
• Pack a light layer for strongly air-conditioned malls, trains and restaurants.

You will also see lottery sellers with trays of tickets on many pavements. Our guide to the Thai lottery explains how it works.