Guide
Chiang Mai: the Old City, Doi Suthep and Lanna culture
Chiang Mai was founded in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna kingdom, and it still feels different from Bangkok: cooler, greener and full of old temples inside a moated city. Its highlights are the Old City, the mountain temple of Doi Suthep, the Yi Peng lantern festival and northern dishes such as khao soi.
Why is Chiang Mai different?
King Mangrai founded Chiang Mai in 1296 as the centre of Lanna, an independent northern kingdom with its own script, architecture and customs. The square Old City, still ringed by its moat and stretches of brick wall, keeps that history close: Lanna-style temples, wooden houses and craft traditions are everywhere.
Temples in the Old City
Wat Chedi Luang, begun in the late fourteenth century, is dominated by a huge ruined brick chedi and once housed the Emerald Buddha now kept in Bangkok. Wat Chiang Man is traditionally considered the city's oldest temple. Both are within easy walking distance of each other inside the moat.
Doi Suthep
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep sits on the mountain of the same name above the city. According to legend, a white elephant carried a relic of the Buddha up the slope and stopped at the spot where the temple now stands. On a clear day the terrace looks out over the whole of Chiang Mai.
Yi Peng and Loy Krathong
Yi Peng, the Lanna lantern festival, coincides with Loy Krathong, usually in November. Sky lanterns go up while krathong float on the Ping River, and in modern Chiang Mai the two have merged into one multi-day celebration. Large lantern ceremonies, some of them ticketed for international visitors, take place outside the centre; arrive early, use public transport and book accommodation well ahead. Only lanterns made of natural materials are allowed, and ceremonies expect temple-style clothes. Dates follow the lunar calendar, so check the current programme. Our guide to Thai culture explains the festivals in more detail.
What to eat
Khao soi is the northern signature: egg noodles in a coconut curry broth, topped with crispy fried noodles. Look out too for sai ua, a herby grilled pork sausage, and sticky rice, which is eaten more often than steamed rice in the north. Our guide to Thai food compares the regional cuisines.
When to go
Chiang Mai is cooler and less humid than Bangkok and the south. The dry season runs from about November to April; from October to March the gap between day and night temperatures is larger, so bring a warm layer for evenings and early mornings in the mountains. In the rainy season, showers are usually short afternoon downpours rather than all-day rain.
Opening hours, prices, dates and rules change. Check official sources before you travel; this guide is for general information.
